Lavender perfumes

True lavender and lavandin

Perfumery uses two related plants. True lavender, grown in places such as the south of France, gives a soft, floral, herbal oil with a sweet finish. Lavandin, a hybrid, is stronger and more camphor-like, with a sharper, cleaner edge. Both are steam-distilled from the flowering spikes. Pyramids write lavender, lavandin or occasionally lavender absolute, which is rounder and sweeter than the oil.

How lavender behaves

Lavender is a top-to-heart note. It evaporates quickly enough to give a fresh opening, yet it also has a floral side that carries into the heart. It combines with bergamot and mandarin for a bright, clean start, with cardamom and ginger for spice, and with vanilla, tonka and amber for the powdery, hay-like warmth known from classic fougere perfumes. It also works against sweet notes, adding a green, slightly dry contrast.

Perfumes with lavender

• Argos Fall of Phaeton places lavender in the heart with labdanum and agarwood, under bergamot, lemon, cardamom, pink peppercorn and ginger, above musk, leather, tonka bean and vanilla. Argos files it as spicy, resinous and woody.
• Argos Neptune's Trident lists lavender at the top with bergamot, mandarin orange and cardamom, above a heart of geranium, green tea, orange blossom and jasmine sambac, and a base of vetiver, musk, labdanum, ambergris, iris and sandalwood.
• Fragrance Du Bois Tropiques uses lavandin in the heart with Mahonial and Rosyfolia, between bergamot, mandarin and tropical fruits and a base of caramel, amber and musk. Fragrance Du Bois files it as fruity floral.
• Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur opens on bergamot, mandarin and lavender and moves to amber, vanilla and musk before sandalwood. Frederic Malle files it as amber.
• Les Eaux Primordiales Iris Palladium sets lavender with cardamom and cilantro at the top, above mugwort, violet and iris and a base of sandalwood, vanilla, guaiac wood, amber, benzoin and cedar wood. See Les Eaux Primordiales.
• Roja Parfums Elysium Pour Homme puts lavender with lemon, bergamot, grapefruit, lime, thyme and artemisia in a long citrus opening. Roja Parfums files it as woody citrus.
• Xerjoff XJ 1861 Naxos pairs lavender with lemon, bergamot and incense from Oman at the top, over jasmine sambac, honey and cinnamon, then vanilla, tobacco leaf and tonka bean. Xerjoff files it as aromatic and spicy.

Choosing a lavender perfume

Lavender is polarising only when it stands alone. Paired with citrus and pepper it feels clean and bright. With vanilla, tonka or amber it turns soft, warm and powdery. With iris and violet it becomes elegant and cosmetic. If you find classic lavender old-fashioned, choose one where it sits inside a larger composition, such as fruit and florals or resin and tobacco, where it acts as a green accent rather than a headline.