Citrus perfumes

What the citrus label covers

The first thing you notice in a citrus perfume is the peel: lemon, grapefruit, mandarin, bergamot, often with ginger, pepper or mint beside it. Citrus oils evaporate quickly, though, so the label mostly describes the opening. The rest of the character comes from the heart and base, and the houses in our collection file very different pyramids under the same word.

Six directions for the zest

• Over wood. Argos Danaë is labelled Woody, Citrus, Spicy by Argos: bergamot and Sicilian lemon on top, pink peppercorn with guaiac, cedar and cashmere wood in the heart, then cistus, patchouli, Mysore sandalwood and musk.
• Chypre. Nishane Hacivat is filed by Nishane as Citrus / Chypre / Woody: bergamot, pineapple and grapefruit, then jasmine, patchouli and cedarwood, then clearwood, oakmoss and dry timberwood.
• With tea. Nishane Wūlóng Chá (Citrus / Green / Musky) opens on bergamot, orange, litsea and mandarin, moves to oolong tea and nutmeg and ends on musk and fig.
• With water and salt. Pernoire Vitias is Citrus · Aquatic for Pernoire: bergamot, lime and two peppers over marine notes, iris and blond woods, with ambergris and white musk below. Fascent Sel à Vie is described by Fascent as salty, sun-kissed, with mandarin and sweet orange on top and sea salt, driftwood and a vanilla infusion in the base.
• With fruit. Reinvented Aether Aura is fruity citrus for Reinvented: bergamot, lemon, ginger and pink pepper, then iris, kiwi, pineapple and geranium, then amber, vetiver and musk.
• With amber and spice. Roja Parfums Burlington 1819 is Citrus (fresh Ambrée accord) for Roja Parfums: grapefruit, lime, mandarin, bitter orange and mint on top, over a long base that includes ginger, cinnamon, saffron, rum, tobacco, vanilla and ambergris.

What carries the zest

Because citrus leaves first, whatever lies underneath sets the style. Musk and pale woods keep it clean. Vetiver, oakmoss and patchouli add a dry, chypre-like depth. Amber, vanilla and spice make it warmer. Salt, ozone and marine notes turn it airy and briny, and tea adds a green, dry edge.

Finding your citrus

Start from the second word on the label. Woody and chypre read dry and upright, aquatic and green read airy, fruity reads juicy, amber reads warm. Then count the fruits: one or two give a focused opening, a long list gives a bouquet. If you are unsure, read the base first, since that is the part you will live with once the peel has gone.