Portrait of a Lady
On request
Dark rose, pepper and the illusion of oud
Promise is the second volume of the house's Desert Gems collection, a tribute to Middle Eastern perfumery composed by a Western perfumer, Dominique Ropion, in 2017. He recreates the allure of oud as an illusion, with cypriol and Turkish and Bulgarian rose. The brand frames it as a celebration of the strongest bonds between two people and the sacredness of one's word.
Available on request
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The composition
The curve shows the order in which the notes come forward, not their strength.
On the skin
The top has three notes: pink pepper, rosemary oil and an apple accord. The pepper gives a dry spark, the rosemary a green, herbal bite and the apple a bright, slightly tart note. Together they open the scent with energy before the roses arrive.
The heart sets Bulgarian rose oil and Turkish rose absolute side by side, with clove oil next to them. The two roses are given room, and the clove adds a warm, dry spice that keeps them from turning soft. This is where the brand's idea of strong bonds takes on weight.
The base is patchouli heart, ambroxan, labdanum and cypriol heart. There is no oud in the list: the brand says Ropion recreates the allure of oud as an olfactory illusion, using cypriol with rose. Labdanum adds resin, ambroxan a smooth, skin-warm backing and patchouli earth.
Wearing it
This is a dense, dry scent, so start with one or two sprays and let the roses and cypriol unfold. It suits cool evenings and indoor settings, and holds its own at a long dinner or a formal event. With a base of cypriol and labdanum, it needs less than a light cologne.
For people who enjoy rose with a dark, resinous background and like the idea of oud without a literal oud note. It suits those who respond to scents with a story attached and want something with formality for evenings and special occasions. The house shows it on its women's pages and its men's pages alike, so no one audience owns it.
Promise belongs to Desert Gems, a series of four that the house had Western perfumers compose as a tribute to Middle Eastern perfumery. Its sand-coloured carton with Arabic script sets it apart from the red cartons of the main range. The perfume itself is a composition of rose, pepper and cypriol with a clear idea of its own.
Questions
Concentration: Eau de Parfum. Size: 50 ml. A base of labdanum, cypriol and patchouli lets that concentration show as warmth and body.
No oud note is listed. The brand says Dominique Ropion recreates the allure of oud as an olfactory illusion, building it from cypriol together with Turkish and Bulgarian rose.
Rose is central, with Bulgarian rose oil and Turkish rose absolute in the heart, but it is a dark, spiced rose: pink pepper and clove give it a dry edge, and patchouli, labdanum and cypriol anchor it.
The brand frames it around strong bonds between two people and the sacredness of one's word, so it suits a gift with weight, as long as the recipient likes rich, resinous scents.
The house
Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle is a Paris house founded in 2000 by Frédéric Malle, who treats perfumers as authors and prints their names on the bottle. The perfumes, from rose and tuberose to lilac and amber musk, are written with complete creative freedom.
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4.7 out of 5
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Reviews of FragranceGems, the shop behind NicheGems
The store’s selection is really good and comprehensive. Placing an order was very easy, and shipping was really fast. The fragrances were well packed and they were all excellent. I’m very satisfied. 👍💯👍
Very good quality profume, it last long and it has a good price for its incredible aroma and mixes of fruit and wood smell
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This perfume is really well blended, I just removed a star because I personnaly don't like the top note (citronella)
Placing the order was very easy. Shipping was very fast. I am completely satisfied.
Good cologne, love the citrus and ginger scent making it a playful combo while the tea base makes it a bit more mature. Great for the gym
FragranceGems is again really quick with their releases. I hope this one smells better than Too Damn Good. Already rating a 5 star because of previous experiences!!
Already pre-order. As always, FragranceGems is the first with good releases. Looking forward to my bottle!
The cap of the bottle came with a small part of it broken off and the glass pieces were in the box
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From the house of FragranceGems
NicheGems is part of FragranceGems B.V. in Zoetermeer, the Netherlands. Original perfumes from niche houses, handled by the same team that looks after every FragranceGems order.
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