Vanilla Powder
On request
Birch tar and resin, a sun-warmed glove
Falcon Leather begins with an image: a falconer's glove warmed by the sun, and behind it Grasse's old trade of scenting leather gloves. Aurélien Guichard, founder and perfumer of Matière Première, builds it on Finnish birch tar oil, with saffron, Andalusian labdanum and Sumatran benzoin around it. The house publishes no pyramid, only these four materials.
Available on request
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On the skin
The brand's picture is physical: the sleek, powerful side of leather on one hand and its supple suede side on the other. Birch tar oil is the central material and the one that carries the leather idea. It is dark, smoky and faintly tarry, a note that already leans towards hide and woodsmoke.
Labdanum and benzoin do the softening. The brand gives labdanum the smooth, full-grain side and benzoin the soft suede side. Labdanum is dry, resinous and a little ambery; benzoin is rounder and more balsamic. Saffron runs through the smoke with a dry, slightly metallic spice that keeps the resins from turning sweet.
Nothing in this list is light, so Falcon Leather has weight rather than sparkle. The tar draws the dark outline, the resins fill it in and the saffron adds a dry edge. It should sit close and warm on the skin, more like a worn glove than a bonfire, and the smoke stays clear throughout.
Wearing it
One or two sprays on the chest or the inner wrists are enough, because the materials are dense. Falcon Leather suits cool weather and evenings, when smoke and resin read as warmth. In real heat the birch tar can feel heavy, so a lighter hand helps. As an Eau de Parfum it asks for a little restraint.
People who already enjoy leather, smoke or resinous perfumes and prefer one clear idea to a long list. The house describes all its fragrances as gender neutral, and this one fits an autumn walk, a dinner or a dark winter coat equally well. It is a less obvious pick for anyone after something soft and sweet.
The perfume stays with one idea and names what it is made of, with the origin of each material. The brand states that its fragrances contain 85 to 92 percent naturally derived ingredients and are vegan. If you want leather that comes from tar and resin rather than from sugar or flowers, this is a direct version.
Questions
The brand lists no leather material. The leather impression comes from birch tar oil, with labdanum and benzoin shaping its smooth and suede sides, as the brand describes it.
Smoke is part of it, since birch tar oil is the central material. Labdanum, benzoin and saffron surround it, so expect a warm, resinous smoke rather than a sharp, burnt one.
It is an Eau de Parfum in a 100 ml bottle. At that concentration the materials sit close to the skin and stay present, which suits a perfume this dense.
It can, in small amounts, but it is built for cooler weather. In heat, one spray in the evening is easier to carry than the fuller application that suits autumn.
The house
Matière Première is a French house built around the perfumer Aurélien Guichard, who signs every product page and whose first fields, planted in 2016, are where the project began. Each perfume is built on an overdose of one central natural raw material, from Finnish birch tar oil to Greek saffron oil and French rose centifolia absolute.
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4.7 out of 5
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Reviews of FragranceGems, the shop behind NicheGems
The store’s selection is really good and comprehensive. Placing an order was very easy, and shipping was really fast. The fragrances were well packed and they were all excellent. I’m very satisfied. 👍💯👍
Very good quality profume, it last long and it has a good price for its incredible aroma and mixes of fruit and wood smell
A cozy, slightly sensual vanilla that feels like warm night air by the sea. Easy to love if you enjoy gourmand perfumes with a soft smoky edge.
This perfume is really well blended, I just removed a star because I personnaly don't like the top note (citronella)
Placing the order was very easy. Shipping was very fast. I am completely satisfied.
Good cologne, love the citrus and ginger scent making it a playful combo while the tea base makes it a bit more mature. Great for the gym
FragranceGems is again really quick with their releases. I hope this one smells better than Too Damn Good. Already rating a 5 star because of previous experiences!!
Already pre-order. As always, FragranceGems is the first with good releases. Looking forward to my bottle!
The cap of the bottle came with a small part of it broken off and the glass pieces were in the box
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From the house of FragranceGems
NicheGems is part of FragranceGems B.V. in Zoetermeer, the Netherlands. Original perfumes from niche houses, handled by the same team that looks after every FragranceGems order.
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