Falcon Leather
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Matière Première Radical Rose
A dark, luminous rose with spice and resin
The brand calls Radical Rose genderless, dark and luminous. It is built on rose centifolia absolute from France, which the brand says the house grows organically itself and uses at what it calls the highest concentration of that absolute in the world. Saffron, Jamaican pepper, Indonesian patchouli and Andalusian labdanum complete the list.
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The composition
Notes
The house lists its notes without a pyramid.
- Rose centifolia absolute (France)
- Saffron
- Pepper berries essence (Jamaica)
- Patchouli essence (Indonesia)
- Labdanum absolute (Andalusia)
- Character
- Strong
- Occasion
- Concentration
- Explore by note
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On the skin
How it unfolds
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The rose itself
Rose centifolia absolute is the central material: full, honeyed, slightly green and deep, something quite different from a light rose water. At the strength the brand describes, it is the substance of the perfume, not an accent. Everything else on the list is there to turn the rose, not to cover it.
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The bright, spicy side
Saffron and Jamaican pepper berries sharpen the bright, spicy side of the rose, according to the brand. Saffron adds a dry, faintly leathery warmth and pepper a clean, tingling edge. They make the rose crisper and more modern, and they keep its sweetness from settling into jam.
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The dark, woody side
Indonesian patchouli and Andalusian labdanum bring out the rose's dark, woody facets. Patchouli is earthy and cool, labdanum resinous and warm, and both give the flower a shadow to sit in. The rose comes across as velvet rather than a pink bouquet, which is where the brand's word dark comes from.
Wearing it
When, who and why
How to wear it
Radical Rose is a full Eau de Parfum, and two or three sprays on the chest and neck are enough. Its spice and patchouli make it comfortable in cool weather, and it fits evenings and occasions when you want a flower with some weight. In summer, a single spray keeps it from feeling heavy.
Who it is for
People who like rose but find most rose perfumes too sweet or too pink. The house calls it genderless, and the dark side with patchouli and labdanum suits anyone who enjoys a floral with depth. It is a strong choice for evenings, dinners and the cold months.
Why choose Matière Première Radical Rose
The brand gives a precise account of the rose: centifolia absolute, from roses the house says it grows organically itself. A perfume built around one named flower and four supporting materials is easy to understand before you try it, and the fields behind it are part of the story.
At a glance
- House
- Matière Première
- Perfumer
- Aurélien Guichard
- Year
- 2020
- Size
- 100 ml
- For
- Unisex
Questions
Frequently asked
Is Radical Rose a sweet rose?
Not especially. Saffron and Jamaican pepper sharpen the rose, and patchouli and labdanum give it dark, woody depth, so the character is spicy and deep rather than candied.
What is rose centifolia absolute?
A concentrated extract of the centifolia rose, the central material of this perfume. The brand says it comes from roses the house grows organically itself, in France.
Is it only for women?
No. The brand calls all its fragrances gender neutral and describes this one as a genderless rose. The dark, spicy and woody sides widen who it suits.
Which concentration and size is this?
An Eau de Parfum in a 100 ml bottle, the concentration at the centre of the brand's range. It gives the rose and the resins enough density to feel full.
The house
About Matière Première
Matière Première is a French house built around the perfumer Aurélien Guichard, who signs every product page and whose first fields, planted in 2016, are where the project began. Each perfume is built on an overdose of one central natural raw material, from Finnish birch tar oil to Greek saffron oil and French rose centifolia absolute.
- A French house; Aurélien Guichard is founder and house perfumer
- The project grew from the first fields Guichard planted in 2016
- Own Ecocert-certified fields in Grasse; each harvest goes into one perfume
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