Portrait of a Lady
On request
Red berries, rose, incense and oud
The Moon is the fourth volume of Desert Gems, the house's tribute to Middle Eastern perfumery, composed in 2019 by Julien Rasquinet. The brand links it to the moon that paces life in the Middle East and to the way Arabic uses it to speak of love. Rose, oud and incense meet red berries, which add a sweet surprise.
Available on request
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The composition
The curve shows the order in which the notes come forward, not their strength.
On the skin
The opening combines raspberry and lychee with saffron. The fruit is the surprise the brand talks about: a juicy, red sweetness that it likens to the fruity scents of hookahs, while saffron adds a dry, warm thread. The start is bright and sweet, but already shaded.
The heart pairs frankincense, named olibanum, with Turkish rose. The brand describes a warm, refined blend of rose, oud and incense, and this is where rose and incense meet: resinous smoke and a deep, rounded flower. The red fruit gives the whole a sweetness the brand compares to eastern nights.
The base is oud and leather, and the brand specifies natural oud and a leather blend. Together they give a dark, dry finish against which the fruit and rose of the earlier stages are set. It is the deepest part of the scent, and the part that stays.
Wearing it
A scent with oud and leather in the base needs space, so apply it sparingly: one or two sprays on the chest or the back of the neck. It belongs to cool, dark evenings and formal occasions. Give it a few minutes on the skin, as the fruit comes first and the resinous heart takes a moment to arrive.
For people who like Middle Eastern perfumery and enjoy rose, incense and oud with an unexpected fruity sweetness. It suits those who want a distinctive evening scent and do not mind a base of leather and oud. It rewards patience, since the fruit that opens it gives way slowly to something darker.
Julien Rasquinet composed it around a clear poetic idea: the moon as the way Arabic speaks of love. Its sand-coloured carton with Arabic script marks it as part of the collection. The pyramid is easy to read: raspberry, lychee and saffron on top, olibanum and rose in the heart, oud and leather below.
Questions
It is an Eau de Parfum, 50 ml, and with oud and leather underneath it is a rich, dense scent, so a small amount goes a long way.
Yes. Oud is one of the two base notes, with leather, and the brand specifies natural oud. Frankincense and Turkish rose sit above it in the heart.
It has a fruity side: raspberry and lychee on top, and the brand mentions red berries as the surprise in a blend of rose, oud and incense. The base is dark, though, so the fruit is a contrast rather than the whole story.
Desert Gems, the house's tribute to Middle Eastern perfumery composed by Western perfumers. The Moon is the fourth volume, created in 2019 with Julien Rasquinet.
The house
Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle is a Paris house founded in 2000 by Frédéric Malle, who treats perfumers as authors and prints their names on the bottle. The perfumes, from rose and tuberose to lilac and amber musk, are written with complete creative freedom.
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The store’s selection is really good and comprehensive. Placing an order was very easy, and shipping was really fast. The fragrances were well packed and they were all excellent. I’m very satisfied. 👍💯👍
Very good quality profume, it last long and it has a good price for its incredible aroma and mixes of fruit and wood smell
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This perfume is really well blended, I just removed a star because I personnaly don't like the top note (citronella)
Placing the order was very easy. Shipping was very fast. I am completely satisfied.
Good cologne, love the citrus and ginger scent making it a playful combo while the tea base makes it a bit more mature. Great for the gym
FragranceGems is again really quick with their releases. I hope this one smells better than Too Damn Good. Already rating a 5 star because of previous experiences!!
Already pre-order. As always, FragranceGems is the first with good releases. Looking forward to my bottle!
The cap of the bottle came with a small part of it broken off and the glass pieces were in the box
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