Incense perfumes

Resins that are burned

The incense note is built from aromatic tree resins, above all frankincense, also called olibanum, which comes from Boswellia trees, and myrrh, which is darker and more bitter. Fresh resin has a bright, lemony, slightly pine-like opening; as it warms and burns the smell turns dry, smoky and balsamic. Perfumers use the resins as extracts and recreate the smoky effect with other materials. Pyramids write incense, frankincense, olibanum, Indian incense or incense from Oman.

How incense behaves

Incense works at several heights. In the top its lemony side gives a cool, airy lift. In the heart it adds smoke and spiritual calm to rose, iris and orris. In the base it supports woods, amber, labdanum and leather. It rarely takes the lead; more often it gives a composition depth and a sense of space, and it makes sweet notes read drier.

Perfumes with incense

• Byredo Gypsy Water puts incense in the heart with orris and pine needle, after bergamot, juniper berries, lemon and pepper, before amber, sandalwood and vanilla. Byredo files it as woody.
• Stéphane Humbert Lucas Black Gemstone moves from an infusion of three cedars and Sicilian lemon through myrrh tar to incense, teak and tonka. See Stéphane Humbert Lucas.
• Fragrance Du Bois Cavort closes with Indian incense, patchouli, labdanum and sandalwood, below a floral heart of rose absolute, orange flower, ylang-ylang and jasmine. Fragrance Du Bois files it as floral woody.
• Maison Crivelli Musc Nurāsana has no pyramid: Maison Crivelli lists olibanum incense resin with bergamot, Damask rose, musks and tonka bean, and calls it floral musk.
• Frederic Malle French Lover ends on frankincense with patchouli and vetiver, after pimiento, angelica and juniper. Frederic Malle files it as spicy aromatic.
• Zoologist Camel uses frankincense at the top and incense in the heart, with dried fruits, palm date, rose, amber, cedar, cinnamon, jasmine and myrrh. Zoologist describes animalic florals and fruity amber.
• Jo Milano Paris Game of Spades Full-House ends on olibanum with Chinese black tea, guaiac wood and ambroxan, below neroli, ginger and cinnamon and a citrus opening. Jo Milano Paris lists citrus, amber and fresh spicy among its descriptions.

How to choose an incense perfume

Decide whether you want the bright or the dark side. Incense under citrus and herbs feels airy and clean. Incense with woods, leather and amber feels dry, smoky and serious. Incense with rose or orris is quiet and elegant. Because the note is resinous, an extrait or parfum tends to carry its smoke more fully, while lighter concentrations keep it translucent.