Rose perfumes

Two roses behind most pyramids

Perfumers draw on two main species. The Damask rose, grown in places such as Bulgaria and Turkey, gives a deep, slightly spicy, honeyed rose. The centifolia, or May rose, associated with Grasse, is softer, greener and more honey-like. Both are turned into steam-distilled oils and solvent-extracted absolutes, and a molecule called rose oxide is often added for dewy brightness. Pyramids name the origin, so you will see Bulgarian rose, Turkish rose, Damask rose or Rose de Mai.

What rose does in a perfume

Rose is a heart note with enough presence to lead a whole composition. It pairs well with oud, patchouli, saffron and leather for a dark, rich effect, with raspberry and other fruit for a jammy one, with pepper and spice for energy, and with musks and violet for a soft, powdery one. Because it is so adaptable, two rose perfumes can have almost nothing in common.

Roses in the collection

• Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady opens on rose, moves to blackcurrant, raspberry and clove, and rests on patchouli, sandalwood and frankincense. Frederic Malle files it as floral chypre.
• Argos Adonis Awakens puts Bulgarian rose in the heart with sambac jasmine, vanilla, raspberry and chestnut, and returns to rose absolute in the base next to Mysore sandalwood and cashmere wood. Argos calls it floral, woody and sweet.
• Byredo Black Saffron sets Cristal rose with black violet and a leather accord in the heart, between a saffron, juniper and pomelo opening and a base of blonde woods, raspberry and vetiver. See Byredo.
• Maison Crivelli Hibiscus Mahajád has no pyramid: Maison Crivelli lists Rose Damascena absolute with vanilla absolute, leather, spearmint, cassis, ambrette seeds and cinnamon, and calls it floral fruity.
• Nishane Ani places Turkish rose beside blackcurrant and cardamom in the heart, below bergamot, blue ginger and pink pepper, above patchouli, cedarwood, vanilla and benzoin. Nishane files it as spicy, woody and vanilla.
• Reinvented Epiphany lists rose with cananga, orris roots, cardamom and black pepper in the heart, with a base of benzoin, birch, licorice, patchouli, incense and cedarwood. See Reinvented.
• Roja Parfums Amber Aoud combines Rose de Mai with Jasmin de Grasse, ylang ylang and fig in the heart, over cinnamon, saffron, patchouli, oakmoss, sandalwood and oud. Roja Parfums lists a long base.

How to choose a rose perfume

First decide whether you want fresh or rich. Rose with citrus, pepper or green notes feels bright and dewy. With fruit it turns jammy, with iris and violet powdery, and with oud, leather or resin dark and heavy. Check where the rose sits: at the top it is a quick bloom, while in the heart it defines the scent. If you are unsure, begin with a rose that has woods or musks below, which are the most forgiving combinations.