Bee
On request
Zoologist Penguin
Polar air, juniper, salt and suede
Penguin takes emperor penguins in an Antarctic storm as its subject, the male standing guard over the egg. Chiaki Nomura composes it around Antarctic air, an ice accord and juniper berry, with pink pepper, saffron and ciste absolute in the middle, then sandalwood, musks, sea moss and suede. The brand calls it invigorating. It is an Extrait de Parfum at 20%.
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The store’s selection is really good and comprehensive. Placing an order was very easy, and shipping was really fast. The fragrances were well packed and they were all...
The composition
How it unfolds in notes
The curve shows the order in which the notes come forward, not their strength.
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Top notes
- Antarctic Air
- Ice Accord
- Juniper Berry
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Heart notes
- Pink Pepper
- Saffron
- Ciste Absolute
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Base notes
- Sandalwood
- Musks
- Seamoss
- Suede
- Character
- Moderate
- Concentration
In the same spirit
Similar in character
On the skin
How it unfolds
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Cold air
The top is built from Antarctic air, an ice accord and juniper berry, so it opens clean, cold and a little resinous. There is no sweetness to speak of, only the sensation of a hard, bright wind, which is the scene the brand describes.
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Pepper and saffron
Pink pepper and saffron enter in the heart, adding dry warmth and a faint metallic spice to the cold top, while ciste absolute gives a resinous, slightly leathery depth. The effect is a sharpening of the opening rather than a softening.
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Sea moss and suede
The base is sandalwood, musks, sea moss and suede. Suede is soft and dry, sea moss keeps a salty, mineral edge, sandalwood adds a quiet creaminess, and the musks smooth everything over. On the brand's list the musks are flagged as synthetic.
Wearing it
When, who and why
How to wear it
Penguin is crisp and dry, so one or two sprays are enough, and it is at home in cold weather. Its lack of sweetness also makes it a practical choice for the office and for the daytime. As an extrait it stays close to the skin and wears quietly rather than loudly.
Who it is for
For people who prefer fresh, salty and dry perfumes to sweet ones, and who like suede or leather in a soft form. It is listed as unisex. It suits cold mornings, travel, work and anyone who wants a cool, quiet signature.
Why choose Zoologist Penguin
Chiaki Nomura is the named perfumer. Penguin shows the brand taking a harsh scene seriously: a storm, the cold, a parent guarding an egg. Zoologist describes the scent as invigorating and as a reminder of how hard nature can be.
At a glance
Questions
Frequently asked
What concentration is Penguin?
An Extrait de Parfum at 20% on the brand's page. It is a dense strength even for a fresh scent, so it stays close to the skin and one or two sprays are enough.
Is it a summer scent because it is fresh?
It is cool and salty, but dry rather than sweet and watery, and the suede base has some weight. It is most at home in cold weather, though a light spray can work on a summer morning.
What does the suede add?
Suede brings a soft, dry leather impression to the base, balanced by musks and sandalwood. It gives the icy top something to settle into.
Would it suit someone who dislikes sweet perfumes?
Very likely: there are no gourmand or sugary notes in the pyramid, only air, ice, juniper, spice, sea moss, wood, musk and suede.
The house
About Zoologist
Zoologist is a Toronto house founded in 2013 by Victor Wong, where every perfume is named after an animal and made with a different named perfumer. The 60 ml bottles are Extrait de Parfum, and the scents run from honeyed florals and inky sea notes to smoky resins and cosy hay.
- Founded in 2013 in Toronto, Canada, by Victor Wong
- Every perfume is named after an animal
- Each perfume is made with a different named perfumer, printed on the box
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What FragranceGems customers say
NicheGems is new. These are reviews from FragranceGems customers about their orders at FragranceGems, the shop behind NicheGems. Collected by Judge.me.
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Reviews of FragranceGems, the shop behind NicheGems
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The cap of the bottle came with a small part of it broken off and the glass pieces were in the box
A selection of recent reviews in proportion to their star ratings.
From the house of FragranceGems
The niche department of FragranceGems
NicheGems is part of FragranceGems B.V. in Zoetermeer, the Netherlands. Original perfumes from niche houses, handled by the same team that looks after every FragranceGems order.
Reviews of FragranceGems, the shop behind NicheGems
- Original perfumes, new and in original packaging
- Packed with care in the Netherlands
- Customer service by the FragranceGems team