Jasmine perfumes

Jasmine has two main faces

Perfumery uses mostly two species. Grandiflorum jasmine, long associated with Grasse, is rich, sweet and honeyed. Sambac jasmine, the Arabian jasmine, is greener, fruitier and a little like tea. Both are collected by hand and turned into absolutes. Their heady character comes partly from indole, a natural compound that adds a faintly animal, almost fleshy warmth. Pyramids spell out the variety: jasmine petals, jasmine sambac, water jasmine or Jasmin de Grasse.

What it does in a composition

Jasmine is a heart note and a booster. It lifts other flowers, adds radiance to rose and orange blossom, and softens woods with a floral sweetness. It combines well with ylang-ylang, tuberose, gardenia and tiare for a tropical, creamy effect, and with patchouli, cedar and musk for a dry, elegant one. Because its smell is so strong, small amounts are often enough.

Jasmine perfumes in the collection

• Byredo Bal d'Afrique places jasmine petals in the heart with cyclamen and violet, between buchu, marigold, bergamot and blackcurrant and a base of tonka bean absolue, cedarwood, musks and vetiver. Byredo files it as floral.
• Ex Nihilo Blue Talisman pairs jasmine with orange blossom in the heart, below pear and bergamot and above sandalwood, vanilla, musks and ambery woods. Ex Nihilo calls it floral and ambery.
• Fascent Sel à Vie sets jasmine with ylang ylang and tiare below mandarin and sweet orange, over sea salt, driftwood and vanilla infusion. Fascent calls it salty and sun-kissed.
• Nishane Hacivat puts jasmine with patchouli and cedarwood in the heart, under bergamot, pineapple and grapefruit, above clearwood, oakmoss and dry timberwood. Nishane files it as citrus, chypre and woody.
• Xerjoff XJ 1861 Naxos uses jasmine sambac with honey, cinnamon and cashmere in the heart, below lemon, bergamot, lavender and incense from Oman. Xerjoff lists aromatic and spicy.
• Le Labo Another 13 has no pyramid: Le Labo lists ambroxyde, jasmine and moss.
• Les Eaux Primordiales Couleur Primaire puts jasmine, peony and rose in the heart, between aldehydes and pear and a base of white musks and ambroxan. Les Eaux Primordiales calls it fresh and clean.

Choosing a jasmine perfume

Ask how heady you want it. Jasmine with citrus, salt or aldehydes feels bright and clean. With ylang-ylang, tiare or orange blossom it becomes creamy and tropical. With honey, spice or woods it turns warmer and more serious. Sambac tends to read greener and lighter, while grandiflorum is fuller and sweeter. If you are sensitive to heady florals, look for jasmine with a lot of air around it, meaning citrus above and musk or cedar below.