Ambery perfumes

What defines the family

An ambery perfume is led by the warm, resinous base that perfumers call an amber accord: labdanum, benzoin and vanilla, often with tonka bean, musks, balsams or myrrh. The impression is rounded, slightly powdery and comforting, and it stays in the base for a long time. Unlike a wood or a flower, amber is about warmth and texture more than a single recognisable smell.

Four styles of amber

• Dry and resinous: labdanum, incense, myrrh, sometimes oud or leather.
• Sweet and vanilla: benzoin, vanilla and tonka, softer and more edible.
• Fresh amber: citrus, herbs or tea over a light resinous base.
• Gourmand amber: caramel, honey, rum or cake notes on top of the resin.

Ambery perfumes in the collection

• Byredo Black Saffron is filed by Byredo as amber: juniper berries, pomelo and saffron open, black violet, Cristal rose and a leather accord follow, and blonde woods, raspberry and vetiver close.
• Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur puts amber, vanilla and musk in the heart, between bergamot, mandarin and lavender and a base of sandalwood and musk. Frederic Malle calls it amber.
• Fascent Crème Brûlante is the gourmand end: Fascent names vanilla and amber as its family and lists vanilla duos, cake batter accord, almond balm, rum drop, amber wood, benzoin and olibanum.
• Pernoire Poka is gourmand and ambery in Pernoire's words, with caramel popcorn, apple pie and cinnamon above roasted hazelnut, labdanum and dried apricot, then vanilla, musk, tonka bean and cedarwood.
• Ex Nihilo Blue Talisman sits in a woody, ambery frame: pear, bergamot, ginger and mandarin lead to orange blossom and Georgywood, then Ambrofix, Akigalawood and musks. See Ex Nihilo.
• Amouage Guidance pairs a floral heart of saffron, rose, jasmine sambac and osmanthus with a base of cistus, sandalwood, Akigalawood, ambergris and vanilla. Amouage lists floral and amber.
• Les Eaux Primordiales Ambre Supermassive is described by Les Eaux Primordiales as amber, black vanilla and tobacco, with a peach, apple and cinnamon top and a rose, honey and rum heart.

How to choose

Decide how sweet you want the warmth. Dry ambers with resin, leather or oud are dark and grown-up. Vanilla and benzoin ambers are softer and wrap round you. Fresh ambers keep the glow but add a bright lift, which makes them easier in mild weather. Ambery perfumes usually perform best in cooler months and in the evening, and an extrait or parfum concentration brings out their density.